Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. From herethe cycle continues and I am Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. Holley EFI 543-105 Idle Air Control Motor But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. Give us a hand! Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? A problem since day 1 - YouTube Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. It may take a few tries. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. Yes, you are correct. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. They tell you to ask call Holley. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. Hello. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. check out the. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. I will let you know what the results are. back to trying to zero down an idle. The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. If I did change the -40 thing also. Any help would b great. Duty Cycle% = 3 You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. I.e. Thanks again. I'm running a 408 sbc. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. It didnt do this with the carb on it. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. :-). During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. Hello Chris. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. me know how it works for you. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. have the system learn the higher speeds? They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. Thank you. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. Thanks so much for reading! Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. you have it set. It's called tuning. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? Cl. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. That is the only way to fly. Im thinking a faulty TPS. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Capability Range: Professional I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. It is a common one. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Thanks for any help. Thanks! If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried. You are aware of the idle-up problem. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly.

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